Images of Tañon Strait: Looking Back to An Incredible Journey

Hard to believe that it was six months ago when I, along with a team of conservationists from Oceana Philippines, and fellow photographers went on an almost week-long expedition across Tañon Strait in the Visayas to document life and sights along this important, though largely under-recognized, body of water.

What a week it was.  We rode inland from Cebu City to Bantayan Island to the north and sailed down south to Bais Bay.  In between, we got serenaded at Aloguinsan before going through the mangrove-bordered Bojo river; marveled at the seascape of Moalboal, even spending two days on a liveaboard and overnight on a reef station in Mantalip.

What made it extra memorable for me was that I was suffering from two infections at the time.  How I wished I was able to see the sardine run at Panagsama beach or even just take a dip on the warm, inviting waters off Virgin Island instead of being feverish and land- and boat-locked.  Still, looking and reading this book, I am transported back to those days where  we wake up to wonder each morning, praying for good weather and retiring to bed each night filled with new experiences.

My profuse thanks to Yassie Arquiza, communications director of Oceana Philippines, for inviting me to participate in this expedition.  To echo Yas's foreword, we collectively hope that through this book, the people that live along the coasts of Tañon Strait as well as the public in general, will be made aware of what they have, and what they stand to lose if wanton destruction of this marine habitat is not stopped.

About the book: Images of Tañon Strait is published by Oceana Philippines International • Text by Criselda Yabes, photographic contribution by photographers, Ferdz Decena, Tonee Despjo, Ferdinand Edralin, Candeze Mongaya, Danny Ocampo, Gutsy Tuazon, and Oggie Ramos. • Copies of the book may be requested by mailing to PO Box 255, UP Post Office, University of the Philippines Campus, Diliman, Quezon City 1101 or email [email protected]

About Oceana Philippines:  The Philippines office of Oceana, the world's largest international advocacy organization focused solely on ocean conservation.  Oceana Philippines seeks to restore the healh, richness, and abundance of Philippines oceans.   By working closely with civil society, academics, fishers, and government, Oceana Philippines will promote the use of sound science-based policies to help ensure sustainable fisheries and vibrant marine ecosystems.

Oceana Philippines Tañon Strait Photo Safari Summary & Highlights: 6 Days, 5 Towns, 3 Islands, 1 Fantastic Journey

6-day Oceana Philippines Photo Safari Route Map © 2015 Oggie Ramos

Full moon above Santa Fe, Bantayan Island

Day 1: Cebu City to Bantayan Island 
From the bustle of Cebu City, we headed over to laidback Bantayan, our vans loaded on a ro-ro. Full moon, moonlight serenade, sinugba dinner on the beach over at Anika Resort. Spent the night in container vans converted into rather comfy accommodations.

Virgin Island off Bantayan

Day 2: Bantayan Island: Visiting Virgin Island, Sunsetting at Madridejos 
Infected by the tropical vibe of Virgin island.  We found local color (and eating stuff) at the Madridejos market before finding kids catching what's left of the day's sunlight in bottles.  Awed by the sunset and seeing Lawis reef exposed during low tide.

Notes from Tañon Strait, Days 5-6: Overnight on Mantalip Reef, Sailing with Dolphins in Bais

Sailing with the dolphins in Bais • Image for Oceana Philippines

Two days is way too short to appreciate the beauty (and creature comforts) of Hale Manna in Moalboal, Cebu.  The huge rooms and wide open garden that opens up to the sea will have to give way to two days of bunking on the liveaboard of Harold Dive Center.  Sort of two days since I get to stay overnight on a reef station, but that's getting ahead of the story.  

We make an excursion southwest across Tañon strait to Bindoy in Negros Oriental (located less than 2 hours drive from Dumaguete City) to meet, talk and share lunch with Mayor Valente Yap.  The shallow water near the mangrove areas meant we have to ride a rubber raft from the liveaboard heading to what Yas aptly calls the Mangrove Pavilion.  It was a hot day and the locals certainly didn't want to waste another minute in the sweltering heat, not when the clear, cool waters under the mangroves were too inviting for a swim.

Notes from Tañon Strait, Day 4: Missing the Sardine Run in Moalboal; Getting Inspired in Hale Manna

Adirondack chairs on Inspiration Point, Hale Manna, Moalboal • for Oceana Philippines

Day 4 of our Oceana Philippines photo safari/expedition was devoted to swimming.  However, the closest I got to taking a dip in the sea was walking to my waist going to Harold's liveaboard since the water was shallow a long way off the shore.

By now, I have had high fever during the night, unsure if I can shoot or function efficiently the next day.   There's this really nice, huge room in Hale Manna with cool air conditioning and comfy beds but all I could do was cower under the blanket farthest from the air conditioner.  The idea of taking the next day off crossed my mind but since this is an assignment and not a vacation, it was out of the question.  To add to my misery, my trusty Nikon was, putting it mildly, feeling its age and acting wonky.  Friends would often presume photo assignments are all fun and games.  It can be fun alright but at the end of the day, you have to deliver regardless of whether you're feeling sick or uninspired, or heaven forbid,  your equipment has gone bonkers.

Notes from Tañon Strait, Day 3: Cruising the Bojo River , Visiting Aloguinsan Farmhouse and Finding Hale Manna

Trellis over path leading to The Farmhouse at Aloguinsan

Heading to our third morning on Bantayan island, I was already getting used to Anika Resort and its environs.  But as with other assignments, you have to leave and move on just when you've sort of settled in but that's work for you.  By mid-morning, we crossed over to the mainland via a ferry boat, then headed southwest to Aloguinsan, 59 km from Cebu City.   I drifted in and out of sleep on the van, recalling seeing roads after roads canopied by tall mango trees, a lot of which are just begging to be picked clean of their fruits (mango is my all-time favorite fruit).

A RIVER TOUR AND AN ELEGANT FARMHOUSE.  We were just in time for a belated lunch on the hut/cabana by the Bojo river.  Yeah, I know, most people will just automatically refer back to the more popular one being run on Bohol's Loboc river.  I personally welcome the thought of more river tours as these ecotourism endeavors help preserve the river, mangroves and natural resources of the place as well as provide livelihood to the locals who live along the river.  This one is no different though I must note that the lunch served was tastier, more substantial, than the one I tasted in the Bohol river cruise I took years ago.

Philippines join World Oceans Day celebration • June 8, 2015

Spinner dolphins in Bais • Oceana Tañon Strait Safari Photo by Oggie Ramos

Even people living far inland is impacted by the state of the world's ocean.  If you come from a country surrounded by water, this becomes even more meaningful.  June 8, 2015 is World Oceans Day.  Having taken part in a photographic safari for Oceana Philippines, the memory of spending a week traversing the waters of Tañon strait in the Visayas is still fresh in my mind.  Oceana Philippines, for its part, is taking its Tañon strait exhibit from its launching in Badian to Eastwood Mall in Libis, Quezon City.  I am fortunate to have some of my images included in the exhibition along with fellow photographer and buddy, Ferdz of Ironwulf.net, and photographers from Cebu, as well as renowned underwater photography master, Gutsy Tuason.  The exhibit will be open to the public for the whole day of June 8, Monday.  Everyone is cordially invited.

Notes from Tañon Strait, Day 2: Sharing Virgin Island with Ethel Booba, Marketing for Dried Fish in Madridejos, Sunsetting in Lawis

Talk about a tropical getaway - Virgin island off Bantayan Island

Day two on Santa Fe started with seeing the dawn break on the horizon accompanied by a friendly dog.  It would be much later that we'll find out that the folks here go out to sea late, around 9-10am.  Which explains why there was not much fishing action to shoot at sunrise.  Getting my feet soaked shooting the locals scouring the shallows for shells on Bantayan Island the night before made my right big toe swollen.  It will keep me from swimming all trip long but not from wandering about and shooting.

We would be spending the middle of the day on Virgin island, about 30 minutes by pumpboat from here.  Maybe the name fooled me a bit, leading me into thinking it was an uninhabited island.  It was not.  It was, however, a white patch that stood out from a rather overcast day coming from the sea.  By mid-afternoon, the sun shone and made the white sand blindingly white.  While the rest of the Oceana team snorkeled the clear, turquoise waters, I roamed around and chased a dog to the other side of the beach where the boats moor and no tourist wander to, save me, Cris (Yabes) and fellow photographer and best buddy, Ferdz aka Ironwulf.

Notes from the Oceana Tañon Strait Photo Safari: Day 1, A Full Moon to Send Us on Our Way

Scouring the shallows for seashell at dusk • Oceana PH Tanon Strait Photo Safari

If I have not been fortunate enough to have been invited to join the Oceana Tañon Strait Photo Safari from the tailend of April to early May, I would not have given much thought to this body of water that straddles the islands of Cebu and Negros.   Though extremely narrow at 27 km, long at 160 km and deep at 500 m, the strait covers a total of 5,182 square kilometers which makes it more than three times the size of the more popular Tubbataha National Park.  

Chatting with writer, Cris Yabes, Oceana's Communications Director, Yas Arquiza, and my friend and fellow photographer, Ferdz Decena, I shared my observation that considering its size and importance especially to the people along its 450 km coastline, Tañon Strait is not "mainstream popular" as it ought to be which comes as a surprise.  That it was declared a protected seascape way back in 1998 in honor of the 14 species of whales and dolphins which inhabit this strait did not make it as well-known in the public's mind as say, Tubbataha. Nor did this prevent the prevalence of illegal fishing in the area.