Jo, my habal-habal driver/guide, rang me up at 3.45am, perhaps unbelieving a guest would want to wake up and go cross-country at this hour. Having rested during my first afternoon on the island gave me the impetus to wake up ahead of sked. So off to the eastern coastal town of caibiran we went, braving the early morning chill and the notoriously-rough, then rougher stretches of interior road in the dark. Sleeping on a cloudy, drizzling night, the day opened with glorious, if cloudy, light. Maybe, just maybe, coming here in December ain't a bad idea after all (contrary to what biliranisland.com advised me, sorry Anthony, Im a stubborn fella). Several mini-buses make the "cross-country" trip from the Caibiran to Naval and vice-versa, with the last trip around 1pm. the trip takes 1.5-2 hours on rough roads that offer scenic views of the sea and the mountains.